The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. This new edition of the Black Bay 58 retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages and includes aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ‘90s. The watch boasted a brilliant burgundy dial with a matching bezel. It never saw production, but this design now lives on in the form of a brand-new Black Bay 58. On top of the new design, the new Black Bay 58 gets the Master Chronometer certification, one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Each fully assembled watch is tested in Switzerland by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS. To tie the whole package together, the new Black Bay 58 is now available on a 5-link bracelet, a 3-link bracelet, or a rubber strap. All three have TUDOR’s rapid adjustment system known as T-fit, making the watch more wearable than ever before.
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.
COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
EMBLEMATIC LOOK
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable lines. In the Black Bay 58, the case offers the proportions of a 39mm case with a thinner profile. The burgundy unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin burgundy dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
