He brought a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility to Versace’s sexy signature style, a utilitarian mood for the city streets that characterised his collections, making them all the more covetable in the wake of his departure. As the southern hemisphere turns its collars up and bundles up for the cooler months, we explore some of the staples of the Versus Versace Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
Trench coats, zip-up bombers, double-breasted coats and cargo pants define the season for both women and men, while the shirt is the new city essential, like the women’s black shirt with epaulettes, or the men’s camo shirt, always with a covered placket.
The adventurous aesthetic is carried through in finer details, such as camouflage prints reborn with the head of the Versus Versace lion. On the other end of the spectrum paisley prints offer softness and animal prints walk the line between wild and sophisticated.
Contrasts are an important theme in Vaccerello’s creations. Mini skirts in either print or pleated with the Versus lion hardware, are daring, a playful juxtaposition to edgy utilitarian coats. Daring is in the detail, be it the fur-trimmed parka or the men’s blouson softened by the addition of a fur collar. This also comes through as tomboy toughness to women’s pieces, like the pinafore body miniskirt or the loose fit jeans, especially when paired with flat ankle boots – still a must-have winter accessory.
Embellishment is key to creating Versus Versace’s headturning ensembles. Checkerboards of patent or studs turn bombers and miniskirts optical, the perfect complement for shirt prints that remix the iconic Versace Greek key. It goes without saying when speaking of the legendary Italian fashion house that fearlessness is innate: the diamond-slashed lingerie top for women or the sheer long dress in ever edgy black with utility pockets at the chest are not-so-subtle style statement looks that stand out from the collection. A one-sleeved black mini-dress held by the Versus lion and a black T-shirt dress with a bold trim of Versace metal mesh remind you that this is a brand that requires as much attitude to wear as to create – and that’s the way they like it.
As Donatella Versace said of the line: ‘I love people with a strong sense of mind. It’s this toughness that we capture in the new Versus Versace collection – the individual attitude of the new generation.’