Listen carefully to Cascais’s coastline and, beyond the roar of its often-tempestuous surf, one can hear whispers of ancient maritime warfare from its crumbling seaside forts. The town’s hidden beaches and caves were advantageous to the World War II spies that inspired Ian Fleming to pen James Bond 007 into existence in his first novel, Casino Royale, in 1953. The interiors of O Pescador, a local seafood tavern family-run since 1964, whisper of another Cascais history. Surrounded by reclaimed nautical lanterns, model ships and lobster traps amassed over decades – that speak of the town’s fishing community – are countless framed photographs of pop-culture celebrities including Mick Jagger, Julio Iglesias, Gary Oldman, Helen Hunt and Jamie Cullum snapped whilst dining at the tavern. Such photos offer a glimpse of Cascais’s enduring popularity.
Much has been written about Lisbon, Portugal’s gritty capital, both to encourage its recent tourism boom and in response to it. Less about Cascais, its neighbouring coastal town that dates back 660 years, and into which Christopher Columbus sailed in 1493 to announce his discovery of America. Three centuries later, the town grew in popularity when it became the first Portuguese municipality to have electricity, largely in response to the royal family choosing Cascais’s beaches as their preferred bathing spot.
With its centuries-old history, a climate that boasts almost year-round sunshine, a shoreline that offers not just unspoilt beaches but an abundance of fresh seafood, and easy access from Lisbon, Cascais deserves more press. With this and more on offer, it’s little wonder that Cascais continues to be a popular daytrip for those visiting the capital. But a flash visit offers only a taste of the town; to truly max out on Cascais, staying over for a few nights is recommended.
Few establishments offer the history and architectural charm of The Albatroz Hotel, launched in the 1960s. Housed across three buildings, the oldest of which dates back to the 1870s and was home to several royal families, the hotel sits atop a promontory that overlooks Conceição Beach. Views of the bay and the Atlantic Ocean are breathtaking, rivalled only by a recent refurbishment in nautical-inspired colours and patterns by renowned interior designer Gracinha Viterbo. There’s a jewel-like intimacy to her decorating, and this makes gems of both the common and private spaces. One can sense the hotel’s history in its corridors and restaurant, and repeat clientele are testimony to its unwavering standards.
Rua Frederico Arouca, a popular pedestrianised shopping area filled with clothing and curio stores and casual eateries, is easily accessible on foot from the hotel. A stroll along this street in the summer months drives home Cascais’s resort atmosphere, more so if it’s with a Santini ice cream in hand. The brand originated in 1949, and locals are quick to describe its ice creams as Portugal’s finest, particularly Santini’s fruit flavours. From here it’s a short walk to Mercado da Vila, Cascais’s fresh-produce market. Wednesdays and Saturdays see the space bustle with fruit and vegetable vendors, with wine, organic, holistic and car-boot markets on designated weekends each month.
Across town, adjacent to the museum quarter, the 19-bedroomed Artsy Cascais honours the past while celebrating the present. Founded in 2023, the boutique hotel occupies a restored 19th-century Rococo mansion, with several rooms housed in a contemporary wing cloaked in a stone façade created by Portugal’s best-known urban artist, Vhils. A stay in this wing is much like living within an artwork, for views are through Vhils’s pierced façade. True to its name, the hotel’s interiors are heavy on art, and a beach-inspired colour and textural palette allow cutting-edge artworks to shine.
Many of the town’s most interesting cultural museums and establishments are a walk away. The Cascais Cultural Centre, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, is across the street. Three floors of exhibition space display an array of local and international art in this former convent. Nearby, is Casa das Histórias de Paula Rego, a building designed by Pritzker Laureate Eduardo Souto de Moura, which boasts façades as engaging as those of Artsy Cascais and pays homage to one of the country’s most respected late 20th-century artists. Its temporary exhibitions and permanent collection are a must for fans of Rego’s oeuvre. While the displays at the adjacent King D. Carlos Sea Museum feel a little tired, they’re vital to the museum’s charm. Most compelling is a presentation about Cascais’s fishing community, as it offers historical insights into lives lived in the town.
Amble across the street and through the tranquil Parque Marechal Carmona. Created in the 1940s, it’s an outdoor space home to much bird life, including several strutting peacocks. On the park’s sea side is Condes de Castro Guimarães Museum, a beautiful example inside and out of late 19th-century holiday-home architecture. Its views of Cascais’s Santa Marta Lighthouse are rivalled by the scenery of Santa Marta Cove, certainly the town’s most iconic and picturesque photo opportunity.
Expect local seafood on almost all Cascais menus, be they at relaxed eateries or fine-dining restaurants (of which there are a lauded handful). On the coastal road to Guincho, Maré by Michelin-starred chef José Avillez – of Belcanto fame – serves traditional fish and shellfish dishes in a seaside setting best enjoyed before dark. Dine on slipper lobsters and just-caught turbot, with Henriette Arcelin’s gorgeous tiled mural as a backdrop. Steps from the town’s ‘yellow street’, local chef Tiago Penão is fast working his way to Michelin-star status. At both Kappo (omakase-style fine dining) and Izakaya (tavern-style small plates), Penão presents diners with interpretations of Japanese cuisine that fuse local and traditional ingredients. Both are intimate spaces that seat diners at counters at which the dishes are plated.
And perhaps it’s these culinary adventures that are one of the biggest drawcards of Cascais. Whether you’re lured by world-class golf courses, sun-drenched beaches, its nearby casino or proximity to Sintra, it’s the taste of the town that you’ll want more of.
